In December of 2026, I booked a yoga retreat on Lake Atitlan in Guatemala with Eagles Nest Atitlan. I was looking for a retreat that was more or less all inclusive in Central America and this checked all of my boxes. I booked the reservation, my flights, and closed my computer.
I got an email later asking if I would like to book a shuttle from the airport to the retreat for $150 one way. Do I look like I am made of money??? I would figure it out one way or another how to get there. Thankfully, I did my research ahead of time and came prepared for what was in store.
step 1: guatemala city to panajachel
I booked my shuttle ticket through Guatego ahead of time to pick me up from the airport at 1:45pm. My flight was landing at 1, so I figured that was probably enough time to get through customs and find my driver.
They sent a very stern “we will only wait 5 minutes for you” message and if I missed it I would definitely be SOL because the next shuttle wasn’t until around 6pm.
Customs took a smidge longer than expected, and I found myself running out the door. The Guatemala City airport exit is a lot more overstimulating than one might expect! There are many taxi drivers offering to drive you wherever, family members greeting their loved ones with big, flashy balloons, and a lot of people in not a lot of space.
I made it through the crowed and exited the airport to be sure I knew where my shuttle driver was picking me up. I figured I would get my eyes on this spot, then go back into the airport vestibule to find an ATM to take out some Guatemalan Quetzal (cash). Unfortunately, once you exit the only way back in was through security again.
I wasn’t super stressed about not having cash at this point. I knew I would eventually need cash for the ferry and tuk tuks, but we had a stopover in Antigua and there must be an ATM there, right?
I connected with my shuttle driver and took the back seat. I notice that there are no outlets, so I am immediately mindful of how much I am using my phone. I knew I had a long trip ahead of me. Our shuttle ended up leaving with 3 less passengers as they had not been as lucky as me to make it through customs in time.
We were off to Antigua! I spent my time napping, reading, and journaling during this trip. I was especially obsessed with the Chicken Busses which are reclaimed school busses decorated beautifully and used as public transport for the locals.
After about 3 hours, we made our stop in Antigua. My plan to find an ATM here was quickly lost after our “stopover” consisted of me stepping from one shuttle into another and immediately leaving the city. I’m still not stressed though!
By the time I got on the second shuttle, the sun was setting so reading and journaling were off the table. I used this shuttle to continue catching up on sleep. About an hour before our destination I made a bit of an alarming realization.
The last ferry to get from Panajachel to San Marcos leaves at 8pm, and it looked like we were going to get to Panajachel at 7:45 pm. Which left very little time for me to find an ATM and the docks, lol. I’m still not really stressed, honestly. One way or the other, I am making it to this damn yoga retreat.
step 2: panajachel to san marcos
As we arrived to the docks in the shuttle, our driver’s accomplice met us. He, in broken English, explained that the last ferries have left and our only option is to pay for him to take us on his private boat. But don’t worry, he takes card!
The crew he was telling this to included me, 2 British girls, and a Mexican man (A). A came in clutch here because he was the only one of us that spoke Spanish. He was offering us the discounted price of $13 per person if the 4 of us went with him (the ferry is typically $3 per person).
Personally, I am completely down for this option. $13 is not ridiculous to me and I don’t have cash! Once we walk down to the docks, the other public ferry operators are yelling “last call” and the 2 girls take off. Apparently to them $13 WAS ridiculous….
This left me and A. The private boat operator now was saying that because they bailed, the price would be raised to $26 per person. Honestly, I’m still ok with this LOL. This seems to be my only option at this point and I still don’t have cash. A and I chat and A thinks he can get him lower on the price.
I watch like a damsel in distress as they have a bartering match in Spanish over the price. Finally, they settle on $19, which- you guessed it- I’m fine with! We boarded this boat in the dark and set sail across Lake Atitlan to San Marcos.
A offered to put his card down and then I could give him back cash once I found an ATM. The ferry ride was about 20 minutes and we pondered if there was a Loch Ness Monster-adjacent entity living in this lake (or anything else that could kill us)
step 3: downtown san marcos to eagle’s nest
Once we landed at the dock, there is a narrow street of vendors leading from the water to the main downtown of San Marcos. I figured A was just going to accompany me to find the ATM, but he decided to part ways towards his hostel. This left me wandering the streets alone at 9pm for an ATM.
To get to the retreat, I could either hike up a very steep volcano in the dark or hire a tuk tuk to drive me up. I figured the latter was slightly safer at this time. The downtown wasn’t super massive, so I figured I could just wander around and come across an ATM.
While I found many beautiful Christmas lights, dogs, and locals cooking delicious-smelling food, I did not find any cash. Let me just remind you that I have not had access to a bathroom or any food since the airplane approximately 10 hours prior 🙂
I eventually decided wandering around aimlessly was probably a bad idea. I approached one of the tuk tuk’s and was surprised to find the driver to be a boy who couldn’t have been older than 8 years old. I held up my phone at 10% with “Where do I get cash” in google translate to Spanish. He pointed me to a little bodega and finally I had my quetzals.
I came back and found the same little boys and they offered me the ride for $2. I honestly loved this random little ride with these boys and felt like I was funding the livelihood of Guatemalan youth. Even if at the end he told me it was actually going to be $2.50… Sneaky little boys.
Finally, I had made it to the entrance of the retreat. Any by entrance, the beginning of the 10 minute hike through the jungle to the retreat. Of course my phone was dead by this point, so I was just vibing with my moonlit hike and made it there in one piece!
The most clutch part of this experience was having a super light backpack so it was easy for me to quickly transition from transport to transport. At no point did I ever feel truly unsafe or stuck. I guess that is just the magic energy of Guatemala!
At the end of the trip, I was greeted with a bowl of warm soup and super great vibes at the retreat! And THANKFULLY a bathroom. I had officially made it in once piece and was excited to finally able to relax! The end.
